Moscow Fashion Week kicked off with its first shows at the Central Exhibition Hall ‘Manege’

MOSCOW, Russia - Moscow Fashion Week kicked off with a bang, showcasing the first 14 fashion shows at the prestigious Central Exhibition Hall "Manege." Designers from various cities across Russia, including Moscow, Yekaterinburg, Kaliningrad, Samara, St. Petersburg, Ulan-Ude, and Ulyanovsk, as well as brands from Indonesia and Brazil, wowed attendees with their latest collections in unique Fashion shows.
From March 2 to 7, the Central Exhibition Hall ‘Manege’ hosts Moscow Fashion Week Market, where fashion enthusiasts can purchase clothing, footwear, and accessories from Russian designers. Additionally, the B2B showroom serves as a professional platform for designers and buyers. The ‘Manege’ also houses the Moscow Fashion Week Lecture Hall, offering insightful sessions for those interested in the industry.
Delve into the world of noble velvet, quilted dresses, intricate lace, flowing fabrics, and tulle that inspired both Russian and international designers, as witnessed by guests at the first Fashion shows at the Central Exhibition Hall ‘Manege’:
In her latest collection, designer LENA KARNAUHOVA struck a harmonious balance between elegance and practicality. Drawing inspiration from the concept of seasons, the collection encapsulates the essence of each time of year. Harsh winter translates into strict lines and asymmetrical cuts, spring blooms in pastel shades and abstract prints, scorching summer is captured in flowing semi-transparent materials, and autumn is portrayed through diverse fabric textures. The brand's new collection aims not only to emphasize individuality but also to ensure comfort regardless of the season or weather conditions. The women's line featured dresses with decorative knots and fabric overlaps, flowing combinations, a range of coats, cardigans, and sets with loose-fitting shirts and trousers. Men's ensembles included jackets, cardigans, sets with ponchos and trousers, classic and intricate cut t-shirts, sweaters, and shirts.


2. Perce-Neige (Moscow)

Perce-Neige, the renowned Moscow-based brand, unveiled a captivating collection where the ladylike essence met intellectual chic, and refined elegance intertwined with everyday practicality. Showcasing a voluminous women's wardrobe tailored for admirers of classic yet graceful styles for various life situations, the collection exuded sophistication and versatility. The focal point of the collection featured feminine silhouettes accentuating the waist and snugly fitting the figure, flowing midi skirts, including pleated variations, as well as dresses, jackets, and coats in versatile hues of coffee, beige, silver-gray, and pearl. Tailored suits came in both strict black tones and soft shades of red. The dresses and outerwear were lined with natural silk, while the finishing touches on select pieces, such as tweed suits and tops with round necklines, were meticulously handcrafted, reminiscent of vintage embellishments.


3. Ermi (Moscow)

Ermi, the Moscow-based brand, unveiled a visionary new collection that delves into the twists and turns of time. The concept found its embodiment in elements inspired by antique costumes from the 18th to 20th centuries, seamlessly integrated by the designer into Ermi's latest collection. A harmonious blend of modern materials and antique fabrics crafted from nettle, linen, and wild silk were used in creating the showcased models. To capture the essence of the era, all pieces were meticulously aged by hand using a unique technique. The runway featured men's ensembles, combining sweatshirts, shirts, and jackets with nylon inserts on top, complemented by trousers primarily in harmony with the upper part, and shorts with raw edges and patch pockets.

4. BITTE__RUHE (Moscow)

The young Moscow brand BITTE__RUHE took the audience on a journey through current trends - from soft mermaid dreams to dark medieval drama. The first part of the collection was a fantasy inspired by mermaid core - form-fitting floor-length dresses and flared trousers made from the softest fabrics adorned with shimmering sequins, lace micro-dresses, and maxi sundresses (all in popular shades of rose quartz and light turquoise), as well as pristine white ensembles with metallic accents. The second part of the collection was dominated by black, and the silhouettes were built on the idea of merging the unmergeable: dramatic lines of capes and maxi dresses with voluminous sleeves inspired by historical tailoring, but enhanced with sporty elements such as zip fastenings and drawstrings. A short black puffer jacket with a deconstructed fragment, a corset imitation reinforced this concept. Key accessories included snug cap net hats made of capron, which had recently become a hit on international runways. One of the models was the renowned actress Elizaveta Bazykina, who played the role of nurse Natasha in the acclaimed series "The Boy's Word."


5. KUZINA (Ulyanovsk)

The presentation of the new KUZINA collection began with a performance by the poet Marina Vernalis, whose work inspired the designer of the brand, Irina Malova. Classic silhouettes and serene shades were complemented by textured materials, voluminous appliques, and large accessories. The Ulyanovsk designer paid special attention to accents - the looks were completed with bright gloves and gaiters, mesh, lace tights, and high slits. The collection included sweater dresses, shirt dresses, sheer combinations, a series of coats in various cuts, capes, t-shirts, trousers, pajama-style sets, and sets with sweaters and midi skirts. The brand hosted an inclusive show and invited two models Martina Kalagina and Alina Husainova, who truly shone on the runway. Strong, statuesque, they presented monochromatic outfits with flowing maxi skirts and comfortable oversized sweaters. The girls had previously walked down the runway, but it was their first time appearing before a Moscow audience. The models' confidence was evident not only in their walk but also in their immense power. Alina and Martina have Down syndrome, but this in no way hinders them from fully realizing themselves in their careers and achieving great success.



The brand from Indonesia, IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA, brought with it the atmosphere of a distant and misty coastline, which could be easily imagined through smooth silhouette lines and transparent materials layered upon each other. The mood of salty water and air was maintained by a delicate natural palette dominated by shades of pink chalk, gray sand, coastal stones, sea blue, and tropical greenery. The collection left a sense of freedom and lightness, despite its multi-layered nature: cocoon silhouettes enveloping the models' figures were complemented by airy scarves made of pleated silk; the same pleated silk appeared as the main texture in tops and dresses, resembling either sea foam or a blooming garden. Long textured gloves and large accessories complemented the looks.


7. ZA_ZA (Saint Petersburg)

In the new season, Alexandra Koryakina-Nikolaeva reflects on the way a person becomes an individual under the influence of society. The multifaceted images of the new ZA_ZA collection embody the main idea of blending masculine and feminine elements. Romantic floral motifs contrast with patent leather on accessories and footwear. Flowing floor-length dresses, executed in a subdued color palette, are complemented by voluminous flowers, reminiscent of the long-awaited season - spring. The key elements of the collection rightfully include textured coats with accentuated sleeves and perforation, which enhance both feminine and masculine looks.



The main emotional source of Dmitry Kudryavtsev's collection was the Rorschach test presenting an idea that different people looking at the same picture can see something entirely different in it. Certain pieces were adorned with abstract prints, but the silhouette remained the focal point of the show - concise, elongated, accentuating the lines of the female figure. The main palette of the collection, including black, red, white, and silver, also did not detract attention from the form and heightened the dramatic effect. Sculptural jacket-dresses with deconstruction elements, trousers with high slits, "naked" tops adorned with shimmering fringe, maxi dresses with unusual cut-outs, and metallic fabric dresses enhanced with contrasting velvet ribbons that tied at the back were showcased on the runway.


9. Dear Passenger N. (Saint Petersburg)

Designer Ekaterina Kibovskaya sought to answer the question of how the wardrobe of a modern woman should look like in her new collection for the brand Dear Passenger N. In the new season, she drew inspiration from the images of the first women in science - Sofya Kovalevskaya and Marie Curie. The designer imagines how these great women would dress if they would have been our contemporaries. According to the designer, their looks would be clean and relatable, practical yet unique. They would skillfully blend feminine elements with restrained oversized cuts reminiscent of menswear. Using free-flowing silhouettes, appliques with elements of Mendeleev's table, velvet, and semi-transparent materials, Dear Passenger N. collection showcases fashion from different generations, paying homage to these incredible women.


10. I.B.W. (Yekaterinburg)

The brand presented several collections at once, vividly showcasing the versatility and functionality of its pieces. A concise silhouette, well-thought proportions, proper fit, and versatility are key components of every garment from Ideal Basic Wear. The models showcased dresses and shirts with accentuated cut-outs, skirts, jeans, shorts, trouser suits, jackets of various styles, coats, men's blazers, and fitted jackets. Accessories added a special touch of chic to the looks: pearl jewelry, black veils, silk scarves, feather collars, fur pilot caps, as well as leather belts, gloves, and handbags.


11. AO brand (Brazil)

In the new collection the Brazilian designer delves into historical wardrobe elements - corsets, crinolines, and voluminous sleeves - but reimagines them in a modern context. True to AO brand's style, the new collection features technological materials that hold shape and snugly embrace the figure, accentuating its curves. Feminine wardrobe elements like lace-up corsets, high-slit skirts, and tailored dresses coexist in the looks with voluminous and covered pieces.


12. Abzaeva (Ulan-Ude)

The brand's concept revolves around reinterpreting the traditions of the Buryat nomadic culture. The history of the shamanic clan from Olkhon Island, to which the brand's founder belongs, is reflected in the collection. To convey her unique sense of form and time, designer Nadezda Abzaeva used slits, fringe, and numerous appliques. The collection, predominantly executed in black and white tones, includes maxi dresses, corsets, long-sleeves, and vests, as well as adaptations of trouser suits and skirt suits, capturing the atmosphere of traditional spiritual beliefs.


13. by /DAS/ (Moscow)
Upcycling has long been an important part of modern fashion. This philosophy is at the core of the brand by /DAS/. In the new season, the brand's team turned to fictional and mysterious characters from Slavic fairy tales, which hold a special place in Russian folklore. Models appeared on the runway embodying mermaids, water nymphs, and noonday spirits. Bold combinations of prints and materials, deconstructed jackets, asymmetric sweaters with loose threads, knitted dresses reminiscent of sea foam, dramatic lace, and patchwork - all these contrasting elements harmonized in the new collection of the Moscow brand, transporting guests and viewers of the by /DAS/ show into a fantastical world where anything seems possible.

14. BÜRO UNIQUE (Samara)
The new collection of the brand from Samara is titled "Mysterious Garden." Floral motifs are reflected in a delicate palette of shades, blossoms adorning romantic corsets and elegant single-breasted jackets, as well as in voluminous ruffles and frills that playfully complement light and feminine looks. Designer Alena Chipura presented an autumn-winter line to the audience. Models resembling forest nymphs showcased luxurious evening gowns made of organza, tulle, and lace in candy hues, creating impeccable and memorable ensembles.

Today also saw the first sessions at the Moscow Fashion Week lecture hall. The program included three lectures: "Russian Names at the Core of Global Fashion. 20th Century. The Origins," "Content for Start-up Brands: The One That Works," "Trends of 2024: Global vs. Local," and a public talk: "The Russian Fashion Archive: Why and for Whom?" The list of speakers included Olga Sysoeva, trend analyst and art strategist, member of the Russia Designers Association, associate professor at the Costume Design Department of the Kosygin State University of Russia, stylist at the SERGEY SYSOEV fashion house; Tatiana Dyakonova, product director at Fashion Factory School; Galina Kravchenko, fashion assortment management expert and author of the training program "Fashion Assortment Management"; Lyudmila Alyabyeva, managing editor of the magazine "Fashion Theory," Academic Director of the Graduate School of Art and Design at the Higher School of Economics, head of the "Russian Fashion Archive" project; Olga Mikhaylovskaya, author of the Telegram channel Front Fashion, fashion journalist, contributor to Vogue, Kommersant and Blueprint, fashion historian, co-founder of the ‘Front’ project; Svetlana Salnikova, designer, researcher of local clothing practices, graduate student at the Graduate School of Art and Design at the Higher School of Economics; and Elena Ermakovishna, head of HSE CREATIVE HUB, lecturer at the School of Design at the Higher School of Economics, graduate student at HSE Art and Design School, head of the LongFashionWeekend Ural project, producer of cultural events, art historian, designer of the Ermakovishna brand.
You can follow the shows and lectures of Moscow Fashion Week in the official community on VK. The event is organized by Fashion Fund with the support of the Moscow Government.