Day Five of Moscow Fashion Week: The Volga Region, Lace, and “Life Cycles”

Photos: https://disk.360.yandex.ru/d/tGnRm9vfwEHvWg

September 30 marked the fifth day of Moscow Fashion Week at Manege. The runway brought together designers from Moscow, Kazan, Shuya, St. Petersburg, Tver, and other Russian cities, as well as participants from Belarus and Sri Lanka. It was a day of striking contrasts, spanning the culture of the Volga region and Vologda lace to Art Deco, ballet, cabaret, and paper clothing.

Between shows, guests headed to the Pop-up shop and Showroom, co-organized by the Made in Moscow project and featuring more than 90 brands, as well as the Lecture Hall. The day's program included a lecture by Anna Bikchurova on new fabrics and biohacking, a discussion with Galina Kravchenko-Manyukova on how fashion teams work with AI, a discussion led by Georgy Rostovshchikov on how brands interact with buyers, and a lecture titled “Fashion Beyond Time” with designer Victoria Andreyanova. Selected recordings of sessions from the Moscow Fashion Week lecture program will be available in the VK Lecture Hall community. Users will be able to watch presentations by business program speakers at their convenience and explore current topics and expert perspectives from across the fashion industry.

A pop-up studio of the Moscow 24 TV channel was also on site throughout the day, with designers, guests, and experts discussing the shows and the industry as the week unfolded. Studio guests included actress Linda Lapinsh, Indian designer Kanika Goyal of the KGL brand, and Irena Soprano, designer and founder of Solangel.

Sber is the strategic partner of Moscow Fashion Week. The GigaChat AI fitting room, developed by the event's technology partner, continues to operate at Manege. The project has entered a new phase, with the technology moving from consumption to creation. The AI fitting room is now integrated into the Giga-Art competition, where digital looks created by participants with GigaChat and inspired by Russian fairy tales are brought together with physical collections presented on the runway. Guests can try on these looks and become the heroes of their own fashion fairy tale.

Tver-based Unke presented its ‘Remembrance’ collection. The theme of memory was explored through sheer fabrics, layering, checks, stripes, and washed and waxed corduroy. These were complemented by technical materials, puffer jackets, leather bomber jackets, and relaxed suits. According to founder Yulia Privalova, the shows noticeably boost interest in the brand, with demand growing both for new pieces and for items from its regular collections: “Everyone writes to us, congratulates us, reposts, and tags us. [...] It is definitely a huge surge. This is very important to us, and we are grateful for the opportunity. We receive requests for pieces after the show, while people also look through items from our regular collections.”
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On September 30, Ruban presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at the Trekhgornaya Manufactory as part of Moscow Fashion Week.

The collection and show were based on hypnagogia – the transitional state between wakefulness and sleep, when the usual perception of reality changes and thoughts and images become freer. Ruban translated this idea into different elements of the show, from the silhouettes and decorative details of the collection to the music, visuals, and styling of the models.

“Between sleep and reality, everything external fades away, and a person remains their true self. It is precisely then that you can feel yourself becoming someone else, someone different. We tried to convey this opportunity to step beyond the familiar through clothing, music, visuals, and the overall mood of the show,” said Alisa Ruban, co-founder and designer of Ruban.

Flowers become one of the key motifs of Ruban’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. They appear in small-scale prints on silk, silk organza, and batiste, as well as in stitching on the fabric and three-dimensional appliqués. In this way, the floral motif runs through different materials and techniques, tying individual pieces of the collection together.

The floral theme is particularly expressive in pieces where flowers become part of the construction itself. Multicolored leather appliqués adorn individual pieces, while black silk flowers form a dress-vest with a voluminous detail resembling a large pocket. Another option is a small peplum that can be paired with different wardrobe pieces. This approach to the floral motif is connected to the broader idea of the collection – the opportunity not to conform to conventional ideas of how clothing should look and what an overall look should be. The pieces allow different moods, volumes, and decorative elements to be combined, leaving room for individual interpretation.

This idea is also reflected in the choice of materials and colors. Ruban uses natural fabrics and a natural palette ranging from rich chocolate brown to sky blue. Blue becomes one of the key shades of the collection: the designers spent a long time looking for the exact color that could tie together different materials, prints, and details.

Shoes and accessories play an independent role in the collection, complementing the looks and reinforcing their color and decorative elements. Flat silk slippers and bags echo the colors and prints of the clothing. The bags take the form of small quilted silk pouches with a wide cuff worn around the wrist, continuing the collection’s floral motif.

References to the dress of past eras can also be seen in the construction of individual pieces. The leather jacket and cotton parka have several fastening options, one of which resembles a corset construction with hooks. Other pieces – skirts and coats – feature hip pads that create additional volume and evoke elements of dress from past eras.
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Moscow-based Solangel dedicated its collection to Russian ballet. Irena Soprano sent voluminous dresses, corset constructions, long gloves, pearls, and crystals down the runway. Real ballerinas in classic tutus also joined the models. Rather than reproducing stage costumes literally, the brand translated ballet-inspired elements into a contemporary women's wardrobe. The same evening, Solangel presented clothing, footwear, and jewelry. Irena Soprano noted that participating in Moscow Fashion Week helps the brand connect with new international partners: “I've gained partners not only in Russia but also abroad, and that's very important.”
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St. Petersburg-based Za_Za closed the day with its ‘Life Cycles’ collection. At its core was the spiral as a symbol of movement and repetition. This motif appeared in asymmetry, fluid lines, complex tailoring, and textured details. The palette gradually shifted from deep shades to lighter ones. Alexandra Koryakina sees a connection between generations and family experience in this idea. The designer describes Moscow Fashion Week as a stimulus that helps the brand move forward and reach a new audience: “Moscow Fashion Week is like a stimulus, like adrenaline that keeps us on our toes so that we don’t relax and continue to develop. And we are very grateful to the entire team and organizers for this opportunity.”
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Moscow-based brand Julia Dalakian presented its ‘African Queen’ collection. Asymmetry and crisp geometry were paired with draping and soft lines, while the palette drew on shades of sand, greenery, sea, and sunlight. This time, the collection also featured a menswear line. Yulia Dalakian has also participated in Moscow Fashion Week since its inception and considers it important to support the professional community and remain part of it: “Participating in Moscow Fashion Week gives us the opportunity to stay connected, to be part of this community, because it is a community that needs to be supported.”
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SHS from Shuya continued the exploration of Russian traditional dress, this time through the history of textiles. The brand was created by Shuyskiye Sitsy, a textile manufacturer with a history spanning more than 200 years. Its “Second Impression” collection featured relaxed dresses and sundresses, jackets, shirts, and skirts. Folklore was woven into the details: layering, headscarves, aprons, gathers, quilting, and fabric prints. Dresses were paired with aprons, jackets evoked traditional garments known as dushegreikas, and headscarves became part of the garment construction. According to designer Ekaterina Matrosova, taking part in Moscow Fashion Week helped the emerging brand first reach a nationwide audience and then expand internationally: “After our first collection show at VDNH, Moscow Fashion Week helped our emerging brand reach not only a nationwide audience but also the global market. International guests saw our new collection in person. [...] And speaking of this year's milestones, the company we work for has welcomed new young employees. People are an invaluable resource at any time, despite the rapid development of artificial intelligence. This has allowed us to expand our team, both in production and management.”
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St. Petersburg-based Relchér made its Moscow Fashion Week debut with the “Secret Room” collection. Art Deco provided the starting point, with fur collars, low-rise silhouettes, rhinestones, plunging necklines, long dresses, and feathers. The mood shifted noticeably in the second half, taking on a more contemporary feel with jeans, vests, cardigans worn against bare skin, sparkling belts, and eyewear. The show closed with a maxi dress made entirely of feathers. Brand founder Renata Litvinovich says that for an emerging designer, taking part in Moscow Fashion Week is first and foremost an opportunity to gain exposure among the media, stylists, and new audiences: “My brand is just starting out – it's a year old. It's a great opportunity for emerging designers to show themselves, make their mark, and get noticed.”
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Pirosmani (St. Petersburg) presented a different kind of show. Jenya Malygina named the collection ‘Paper Creature’, and paper indeed became one of its key materials. Individual pieces and art objects were made from it – light, fragile, and almost weightless. The distinctive shape of the footwear enhanced the feeling, as if the character could be carried away by the wind. For Jenya Malygina, Moscow Fashion Week is above all an opportunity to introduce the brand to a wider audience: “I like that there is a space where many people can come, take a look, and learn about the brand. Even those who don’t know the brand, because Moscow Fashion Week, of course, gives us broader reach.”
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Nalchik-based Misrokov presented its ‘Fractura’ collection, in which Sultan Misrokov explored the theme of rupture – historical, social, and personal. Circassian motifs were combined with deconstruction, strict geometry with soft forms, and carefully considered volume with disrupted proportions. The designer cites the opportunity to receive professional feedback and compete for a grant for debut designers as one of the reasons for participating: “Moscow Fashion Week is the largest platform in the country where you can showcase yourself. And, to be honest, the grant for debut designers motivated me to participate this year. The experts announced for the event are the best experts in the country, so I need their assessment, whether good or bad, to understand which direction I am moving in and whether it is the right one, and, of course, I hope that the work will be highly rated.”
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In Ponomarev’s (Moscow) collection lace met menswear tailoring and hussar-inspired silhouettes. Andrey Ponomarev paired openwork skirts and dresses with oversized jackets, fitted jumpsuits with voluminous coats, and cargo pieces with lace tops. The collection also featured trench coats, jackets, low-slung pants, corset dresses, and cropped jackets. Interest in the show began even before the models hit the runway: according to Andrey Ponomarev, he received around 4,000 requests for invitations after the brand's participation was announced. “I hope there will be even more, more, more to come. And I hope there will be new offers, of course, and collaborations. That's always exciting,” he added.
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Moscow-based Skolka turned to Vologda lace. The collection was built around the contrast of black and white, which brought out the patterns and techniques of the lacework. The designs featured diamonds, circles, waves, birds, swans, the tree of life, and other ancient symbols. Rather than looking like a museum reference, lace was used in both elaborate evening looks and more wearable pieces. Designer Elena Baranova said the brand had received more than 1,000 applications from people hoping to attend the show. “I believe Moscow Fashion Week is one of the most important events in every designer's creative career. Of course, it's prestigious and a great honor for us to have been given the opportunity to participate this year,” she added.
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Belarusian brands Davidova and T. Efremova&Irra are three designers who represented Belarus Fashion Week on the runway. They showcased two joint collections dedicated to Marc Chagall. His works appeared on dresses, tops, jackets, and asymmetric blazers, while gold metal corsets featuring images of the artist's paintings stood out as some of the most striking pieces.
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Limak by Kamil from Sri Lanka dedicated its collection to traditional batik. Kamil Hewavitharana chose a rich palette of pink, green, blue, yellow, and orange, combining national motifs with contemporary silhouettes. This was the designer's first show in Moscow, following presentations in Rome, New York, London, and Dubai. Kamil says he paid close attention to how Moscow Fashion Week operates and learned a great deal from the experience.
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The day opened with a show by Kazan National Research Technological University and its Institute of Light Industry Technology, Fashion and Design. The collection “Ana Steppe,” created by faculty and students, celebrated the culture of the Volga region. Tatar, Mari, Mordvin, Chuvash, Bashkir, and Russian motifs were brought together around the image of Mother Earth. Kaftans, shushpan jackets, shamanic accessories, and other elements of traditional dress were reimagined for a contemporary audience. Rather than opting for the vivid colors one might expect, the designers chose a muted, natural palette. This was the university's first show at Moscow Fashion Week. A university representative shared their impressions afterward: “This is our university's first time participating in Moscow Fashion Week. Our institute is delighted to be part of one of the largest platforms in the fashion industry. [...] This is undoubtedly a wonderful experience for us and for our students. And since this is our first time participating, we very much hope to draw attention to our wonderful university from the neighboring regions.”
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Moscow-based Kuchugova dedicated its collection to what happens to a cabaret performer after the show ends – when the stage is already behind her, but its mood still lingers. Hence the sheer tops, high-slit dresses, fringe-trimmed minis, evening gowns, and opera gloves. Cashmere, silk, organza, and lace were paired with rhinestones and shimmering threads, while the palette centered on burgundy, black, navy, and gold.
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Moscow-based Kisselenko presented Collection No. 59 for Fall/Winter 2026/27. Once again, Lilia Kisselenko focused primarily on form and materials. Embossing, relief, and pleats added volume, while organza and chiffon brought lightness. Silk, fine wool, cotton, and linen were presented in a restrained monochromatic palette.
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This was the fifth day of Moscow Fashion Week – from the Volga region and Shuya textiles to ballet, Vologda lace, and paper garments. Recordings of 81 runway shows by Russian and international designers and 10 lectures from the Moscow Fashion Week Lecture Hall will be available on RUTUBE. Users of the platform will be able to watch key events from Moscow Fashion Week and explore designers’ collections, as well as the event’s Business Program.

The BRICS+ Fashion Summit also concluded at Zaryadye Concert Hall, bringing together experts from more than 60 countries. The Business Program focused on the development of local brands, expansion into international markets, investment, and the use of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry.
The strategic partner of Moscow Fashion Week and the BRICS+ Fashion Summit is Sber.
The technological partner of Moscow Fashion Week and the BRICS+ Fashion Summit is the GigaChat neural network.

The general partner of Moscow Fashion Week and the BRICS+ Fashion Summit is Wildberries.
More content from Moscow Fashion Week and the BRICS+ Fashion Summit is available on the event’s official account on Wibes, the event’s partner, as well as under the hashtags #Московскаянеделямоды and #СаммитмодыБРИКС.

The official photo service of Moscow Fashion Week is the A. Rodchenko Moscow School of Photography and Multimedia.

ICE PROFESSIONAL by NATURA SIBERICA was the official hair stylist of Moscow Fashion Week.