Highlights from Day Five of Moscow Fashion Week

09.10.2024

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On the fifth day of Moscow Fashion Week, brands from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Saratov, Krasnoyarsk, Khanty-Mansiysk, and Tyumen showcased their latest collections. Attendees had the opportunity to explore an open Market where they could view and purchase clothing from both Moscow and regional brands. Additionally, an international showroom hosted discussions between buyers and designers about potential collaborative ventures. The educational Lecture Hall featured three informative sessions.

LUBOVI (Moscow)

The LUBOVI brand focuses on natural fabrics for its collections, using silk in various weaves, recycled cotton, cashmere, and wool. The latest collection highlights soft pastel shades such as subtle mint, muted pistachio, sky blue, and dusty pink, which enhance the collection's tenderness and lightness. The lack of flashy details, intricate cuts, and flamboyant stylings results in a weightless feel, while flowing fabrics like silk offer a noble sheen with soft iridescence.

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FIORI Dress Code & ETNOfresh (Moscow)

Designer Marina Vilisova, the creative director of ETNOfresh and FIORI Dress Code, unified the brands for Moscow Fashion Week, presenting new collection, that featured a blend of minimalist garments paired with spectacular traditional headdresses crafted from intricate, multi-layered openwork knitting. Delicate lace served as a key motif, adorning most of the pieces, reflecting the brand's DNA of celebrating women's uniqueness.

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LUTANI (Saint Petersburg)

The LUTANI brand unveiled its new collection, "Resonance," which is inspired by the balance between the external world and one’s internal state, blending elegance with simplicity. The complete collection featured sophisticated suits, versatile checkered shirts, a relaxed-fitting dress, and standout berry color bombers and down jackets. Notably, the color palette ranged from warm wine color and burgundy to chocolate and lemon, evoking a sense of comfort and relaxation. Accessories like scarves worn around the waist and head provided a stylish finishing touch.

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Surovaya (Moscow)

The Surovaya brand revealed a new collection at Moscow Fashion Week, showcasing a variety of looks that included coordinated family looks and diverse women's ensembles. This approach highlights the idea that a woman can embody many roles: a successful professional, a loving mother, and a romantic soul. The collection features various suit styles, relaxed everyday outfits in soft hues, tweed pieces in pastel shades, and even garments adorned with sequins.

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POPOV FUR (Saratov)

POPOV FUR is renowned for incorporating architectural elements into its fashion collections, as well as infusing patterns inspired by great paintings and iconic artists. The new collection continued this theme, narrating tales from Russia, which served as the show’s guiding motif. Majolica panels, reminiscent of those adorning the Metropol Hotel, adorned fur coats, capes, bombers, and parkas, showcasing the sophistication, beauty, and spirit of the country. Impressively, the entire collection maintains a practical versatility, allowing these artistic pieces to seamlessly complement any style.

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DARYA KIPRIYANOVA (Krasnoyarsk)

Daria Kipriyanova’s creative approach revolves around the deep connection between the human body and fabric, a theme captured in her latest collection. This show emphasized the notion of transformation and the language of the body through tactile experiences. It began with ethereal, snow-white pieces: dresses featuring airy hems, flowing cuts, and dynamic ruffles. As the models graced the runway, they transformed roles, interacting with the audience and each other, showcasing small performances. The garments also underwent metamorphoses, shifting from a color palette of deep blacks back to a delicate snow-white, all crafted from lightweight materials.

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White Crow (Moscow)

The Moscow brand White Crow delivered a collection that exemplifies its unique DNA—a blend of versatility, ergonomics, and quality, all while reinterpreting Japanese design. The collection features minimalist forms and lines, presented through a diverse array of pieces, including maxi dresses resembling kimonos, garments adorned with hieroglyphs, uniquely cut formal trousers, overalls, coats, and parkas. The subdued tones were punctuated with vibrant scarlet accents, while headbands reminiscent of kokoshniks elegantly integrated a touch of Russian folklore into the overall aesthetic.

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NOTIME2EXPLAIN (Khanty-Mansiysk)

Khanty-Mansiysk's NOTIME2EXPLAIN brand showcased a collection characterized by a sporty chic aesthetic. The garments were crafted from over a dozen high-quality knits, featuring an abundance of oversized designs, skillful draping, and imaginative asymmetrical cuts. Avant-garde pieces included a long-sleeved top with a hood and garments with metallic sheens, notably a fitted suit boasting a pied-de-poule print that captured attention.

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IMKMODE (Moscow)

Gothic motifs dominated the runway as the new IMKMODE collection drew inspiration from the theme of requiem. This collection represents a complex synergy, juxtaposing the ethereal with the rugged. The design approach reflects this idea, featuring fitted trench coats with bold shoulders crafted from robust leather, alongside snug dresses that engage in a stylish dialogue with looser, lightweight fabrics and minimalist silhouettes.

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SOLANGEL (Moscow)

The new SOLANGEL collection subtly conveyed that one can still look runway-ready during the cold season, proving that neither frost, snowfall, nor biting winds can hinder stylish ensembles. The collection featured essential knitwear intricately embellished with rhinestones. Looks included combinations of shorts paired with relaxed cardigans, loose sweaters with jeans, and mini dresses accented with statement tights, exemplifying that even basic wardrobe elements can be styled in distinctive ways.

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Norkina Daria N97 (Tyumen)

The Siberian brand Norkina Daria N97 radiated warmth with its new collection, "Morozko". Inspired by fairy tales, this collection featured dresses and coats adorned with rhinestones, showcasing a harmonious mix of dense and lightweight textures in soft color palettes. The presence of playful accents like bows, ruffles, and 3D appliqués enhanced the enchanting theme. A standout feature was the use of pillows as accessories, available in sizes ranging from miniature to maxi.

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ZA_ZA (Saint Petersburg)

The ZA_ZA brand has unveiled a collection for the bold and adventurous. Renowned for its fearless approach to color and shape, the brand showcases an audacious design philosophy that emphasizes intricate details and cut precision. The show embraced a surrealist theme, where complex designs intertwined with a striking monochrome palette of black and white, accented by splashes of red and vibrant floral prints. Sharp, exaggerated shoulders, glossy patent leather puff sleeves, shoes that evoke the likeness of bird feet, and floral-shaped gloves successfully completed this avant-garde ensemble.

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FASHION REBELS (Moscow)

At the FASHION REBELS show, the brand debuted a captivating spring-summer collection inspired by a film featuring Catherine Deneuve. This vibrant collection reflects a pivotal moment when women radically embraced trousers and jeans, celebrating their individuality and value. Key materials included corduroy and eco-suede, skillfully combined to create stunning looks. The collection features flowing dresses, denim pieces like trench coats and skirts, and stylish trousers. The collection featured a rich color palette infused with pastels, sequins, and colorful tights. The trousers were so comfortable that the girls felt ready to dance in them, perfectly capturing the essence of the new FASHION REBELS collection. Additionally, the designer introduced a unique touch with T-shirts adorned with prints featuring quotes from iconic characters. The result is a captivating collection that pays homage to the vibrant spirit of the 60s.

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Koss Koss (Saint Petersburg)

Creative director of Koss Koss unveiled the exclusive "Courage" collection, inspired by the nostalgic vibe of a Soviet autumn resort and encapsulating the aesthetics of the thaw period. The collection featured grunge elements, including spike chokers, deconstructed cuts, and strikingly bright tights, balanced by elegant dresses made from iridescent fabrics and corsets with vibrant patterns to accentuate silhouettes. Notably, designs emblazoned with the Zhiguli-auto prints evoked childhood memories, showcasing the brand's thoughtful exploration of past influences while intertwining modern interpretations of fashion, and the thaw period.

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JULIA DALAKIAN (Moscow)

The JULIA DALAKIAN show opened with an announcement by an Aeroflot flight attendant, leading into a captivating performance by dancers in complete darkness. The vibrant showcase addressed profound themes of humanity and love. A rich palette of colors—ranging from bright to deep, dark shades—swirled through the collection, while large floral motifs blossomed on flowing, airy fabrics, symbolizing necessary tenderness. The intricate cuts, optical illusions, and synergy of contrasting materials like raffia combined with silk and denim celebrated the brand's essence. The show concluded with dancers gracefully clad in maxi dresses featuring hip-high slits, all choreographed to highlight JULIA DALAKIAN's artistic vision.

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In the educational Lecture Hall during Moscow Fashion Week, three insightful lectures were held, focusing on the theme of traditional Russian costumes and their modern interpretations. Topics included: "Traditions and New Crafts in the Latest Fashion," "The Legacy of Ivanovo Textiles: Should We Sew Sarafans and Dresses from Chintz?" and "Keys to Folk Fashion: History, Paradoxes, Trends, and Codes of Russian Costumes." Featured speakers included Olga Sysoeva, a trend analyst and art strategist, member of the Union of Designers of Russia; Olga Surikova, head of the Costume and Textile Design Department at Ivanovo State Polytechnic University; and Andrey Borovsky, a researcher of folk costumes and member of the International Association of Artists.

Moscow Fashion Week is organized by the Fashion Fund with the support of the Moscow Government.