Highlights from Day Three of Moscow Fashion Week

07.10.2024
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The third day of Moscow Fashion Week delighted attendees with an impressive array of collections. In addition to numerous runway shows, guests had the opportunity to explore the Market, view collections in the Showroom, and attend insightful lectures presented by leading industry experts. Among the highlights was the course led by the legendary Kelly Cutrone, founder of the PR agency People's Revolution and a former representative for renowned brands such as Longchamp, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, and Paco Rabanne. Moscow Fashion Week has truly created a unique platform for interaction and idea exchange, fostering the growth of the fashion industry in Russia.

ALENA MUSAEVA (Volgograd)

The day kicked off with a collection from Volgograd's ALENA MUSAEVA, inspired by folkloric elements and the richness of diverse cultures. The creative director skillfully reinterpreted ethnic motifs through a modern lens. The collection embraced a sense of new historicism, characterized by minimalism, textured materials, deconstruction, and oversized silhouettes. It featured crushed fabrics and geometric knits, blending lightweight and heavier materials, as seen in voluminous trench coats and thickly structured jackets adorned with delicate lace.

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ohh.mirrra (Moscow)

Moscow-based brand ohh.mirrra highlighted the artistry of handcraft and thoughtful details, with each product being truly unique. This collection serves as a manifesto for the future, reimagining retro aesthetics within modern contexts. 3D appliqués and textured elements defined the collection, featuring blooming motifs, playful frills, and intriguing distressed details. The use of fluid fabrics created a mesmerizing effect, resembling garments made of jelly, while “invisible” headbands echoed a trendy peplum, doubling as exaggerated bandanas or shoulder accents.

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XakaMa (Moscow)

XakaMa showcased a fusion of oriental minimalism and complex deconstruction, celebrating the enigmatic nature of confident women with a sense of self-irony. The collection featured relaxed parachute trousers paired with translucent skirts, loose shirts matched with relaxed bottoms, and oversized leather jackets or long-pile fur coats. Fur emerged as a significant element, enhancing hems of translucent fabric skirts and adding dimension to sleeves and shoulders. Decorative touches included large patch pockets, metal rivets, flowing lacing that created a fringe effect, and translucent inserts that added a light touch to the overall silhouette.

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MERE (Moscow)

The new collection of MERE brand, titled Linea, draws inspiration from late 80s cinematography intertwined with the modern architecture of urban environments. The collection showcases vivid silhouettes in sculptural coats made from premium fabric, alongside flowing, feminine dresses. The palette maintains a stunningly elegant black and white theme, accented by trendy shades of burgundy, beige, and gray, beautifully exhibited across various tones.

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LESIA LISUN (Moscow)

Artisan brand LESIA LISUN presented a new collection featuring harmonious silhouettes paired with innovative cuts. The line beautifully draped flowing fabrics, showcasing the versatility of black in a myriad of interpretations. Relaxed fits in dresses, including shirt-style pieces, and jackets contributed to a sense of effortless elegance, maintaining a relevant and chic aesthetic.

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MARFAFEDOROVA (Yakutia)

The MARFAFEDOROVA brand illustrated the dynamics of urban life through its collection, merging comfort with a touch of bold sophistication. Key elements included well-tailored jackets, straight and moderately loose dresses, stylish suits and bermuda shorts, all crafted to reflect the rhythmic pulse of city living. Whimsical details brought further flair, featuring dresses with dramatic hems painted in animal prints, and skirts enhanced by decorative folds for a sense of structured refinement, while denim pieces, including elongated shorts, sundresses, and dresses, made a striking impact. All models represented ethnic Yakuts, adding a unique cultural depth to the presentation.

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BÜRO UNIQUE (Samara)

BÜRO UNIQUE introduced the "Chic & Sport" collection, where contrasting elements of style effortlessly intertwine. This collection features cocktail dresses and skirt suits alongside sporty and relaxed apparel. Tulle, silk, and elastic mesh dresses and blouses boast delicate ruffles and captivating 3D floral appliqués that grace the models' décolleté. Ruffles on the shoulders and chest, along with flowing cuts, evoke the image of butterfly wings ready to take flight. With the collection's goal of transforming sportswear into a chic alternative to evening attire, it integrated bombers, shirts, and sweatshirts crafted from luxurious silk and organza. Some pieces were adorned with intricate embroidery, sequins, and lace, adding a touch of elegance and glamour.

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ANRO by ALENA COJOCARU (Moscow)

A bionic model stole the spotlight during the ANRO by ALENA COJOCARU show, showcasing a collection brimming with items that accentuate the waist, featuring lightweight fabrics and graceful draping. The powerful contrast of sheer materials like organza with richly textured velvet embodies the modern woman—soft yet strong, filled with character and depth. Eye-catching details included blouses with ruffles, a variety of peplum dresses, structured corsets, and pearl jewelry to complete the looks.

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ARNGOLDT (Saint Petersburg)

The ARNGOLDT brand unveiled its latest collection, showcasing a delightful array of 3D appliqués inspired by floral themes. An enchanting flower garden flourished on mini and maxi skirts, asymmetrical dresses, straight-cut styles reminiscent of the 1920s, and wrap dresses echoing the 1970s. Each look was elegantly paired with a headpiece featuring a bold, oversized flower in a variety of shades, ranging from versatile to vibrant.

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Maison Kaleidoscope by Katya Kombarova (Moscow)

Creative director Ekaterina Kombarova draws inspiration from travel, art, and the diverse cultures and mythologies of global traditions. All these elements come together in a kaleidoscope that creates a cohesive and stylish picture. A standout feature of this collection, titled "Rose," is the array of maxi cardigans. This season, the knitwear is distinguished by two prominent prints—roses intertwined with birds, symbolizing the balance of feminine and masculine principles, and the "Ballet" pattern, inspired by Diaghilev's Russian ballet. The hems of the cardigans are adorned with dynamic fringe, taking on various forms: resembling feathers, large ribbons, and even showcasing a beautiful gradient.

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Alexander Varlakov (Vladivostok)

Making his debut at Moscow Fashion Week, Alexander Varlakov's collection emphasizes elegance and grace through sophisticated cuts. Although the new line featured intricate cuts, each piece was expertly crafted to accentuate the body’s curves. Varlakov draws inspiration from timeless icons like Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga, believing that femininity is an eternal classic. The collection included several captivating details, such as sequins that added a touch of brilliance and form-fitting silhouettes that exuded sensuality in each look.

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BITTE_RUHE (Moscow)

The BITTE_RUHE brand premiered its latest collection, which was opened by actress Elizaveta Bazykina, renowned for her role in the series "The Boy's Word: Blood on the Asphalt." This collection beautifully embodies the brand's philosophy, featuring familiar silhouettes enhanced with vibrant sports accents and elastic details, along with airy sleeves. The brand continues to experiment with textures, incorporating lace, sequins, high-quality knitwear, and flowing viscose adorned with jacquard flowers. In terms of color palettes, pink served as the primary hue, complemented by a successful blend of gray, white, and green. Additionally, the show unveiled a wedding capsule that strikingly balances boldness and delicacy, perfectly capturing the essence of the BITTE_RUHE bride.

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GAPANOVICH (Murmansk)

The authentic brand GAPANOVICH unveiled a new collection that can be described as a triumph of white, with the Swan Princess serving as the muse and central character of the show. The audience got a glimpse of what this fairy-tale figure might wear in modern times, featuring loose cuts, airy fabrics, and an abundance of ruffles in maxi and midi lengths. Key elements included high collars, jabots, voluminous or flared sleeves, and the subtle sparkle of rhinestones. The headwear was particularly noteworthy, ranging from caps and fur ear muffs to eye-catching feathers.

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LUBA GONCHAR (Ufa)

The LUBA GONCHAR brand showcased a collection dedicated to celebrating women, capturing their emotionality, vulnerability, and energy. Models adorned in corsets and maxi skirts with asymmetrical slits graced the runway. Dresses featuring striking drapery made from satin and silk not only added a stylish flair but also highlighted the silhouette, conveying a sense of variability and freedom of movement. Each piece embraced the figure, complemented by hand embroidery that showcased the unique essence of the fashion house.

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YEGOR ZAITSEV (Moscow)

The third day of Moscow Fashion Week concluded with a show honoring the late Russian fashion designer Yegor Zaitsev. The presentation featured two collections, STAR.OST and NEW G’LOOK, originally created in 2010. Zaitsev’s show offered an emotional experience, marrying stylish experimentation with futuristic and avant-garde designs that symbolized the struggle between darkness and light. Audiences were treated to garments adorned with decorative tentacles, complex deconstructed cuts, sharp hem and shoulder edges, along with headdresses featuring peaks and elongated sharpened c hat crowns, all seemingly designed to ward off evil. Despite the otherworldly outfits, the collection remained true to the art and DNA of the Moscow Fashion House of Vyacheslav Zaitsev, known for its iconic lines and impeccable silhouettes.

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In the Lecture Hall of Moscow Fashion Week, attendees were particularly drawn to a presentation by Anastasia Yarygina, associate professor of the costume design department at Kuban State University in Krasnodar, discussing the influence of Diaghilev’s Russian Seasons on 20th and 21st-century fashion. Guests also participated in lectures covering a variety of topics, including “How Visual Illusions Guide the Perception of Body Shapes: The Psychology of Plus-Size Clothing,” “Extravagant Trends of the 19th Century: Beetles, Stuffed Animals, and Calf Pads,” and “Fashion Make-Up: Trends and Inspiration from the Catwalks.” Featured speakers included Alesya Shevchuk, associate professor of the Department of Design and Applied Arts; Ekaterina Andreeva, art historian at Moscow State University, known for her Telegram channel about art history; and Ernest Muntaniol, the leading make-up artist for Chanel in Russia and the CIS, renowned for creating looks for global stars and photo shoots in glossy magazines.

Moscow Fashion Week is organized by the Fashion Fund with the support of the Moscow Government.